I woke up late today, in a panic- I don’t know why I was so distraught, I didn’t have anywhere to be or anything to do… then I looked out the window and it was raining. Aw, hell. After a brief mental debate, I strapped on my waterproof Merrel’s and hit the road.
I thought Metro hopping sounded like fun- you never know what you will find…Because I wasn’t in a hurry, I looked around the Metro station and realized I was in a veritable museum. Each Metro Station has artifacts unique to their area, dating back to the 2nd century! I snapped some photos for you guys, and jammed onto the next Metro station. After hitting about 5 places, I decided to head toward Plaka and duck out of the rain for a Greek coffee.
In the Plaka area there are many restaurants, and to improve the odds your restaurant will get the customer, there is always a staff member (usually the owner) sitting outside, smoking, drinking, laughing with friends and clacking worry beads. As soon as a potential customer comes near, it starts.
“come, come, lady please, come sit here! you are American? you are Canadian? this is the BEST restaurant, here, look at the ze menu”.
You can only take this so many times (while being polite) before you break down. Though it was pouring down rain, I was being picky. I wanted the perfect place, and I would walk until I found it. Then it happened.
The Perfect Place
I heard the place before I saw it. The music, the familiar bouzouki, the female singer, the clap of hands. My heart literally started pounding with excitement- traditional Greek music means traditional Greek dancing! I turned the corner to find exactly where I wanted to be: Taverna Akropol.
I thought I would give the door man the satisfaction of feeling like he roped me into the restaurant, so I pretended to refuse and then agreed to stay for a drink, but only if I could sit outside. He looked at me like I was crazy (okay, I am) but put a cloth on the table and got me a glass of red wine and a plate of bread with oil. I fully intended to splurge and get a Greek Salad, but after savoring the oil, the thought of having anything else seemed unnecessary.
I sat there in the rain, under a canopy of trees- the music pouring out the doors and windows, wine in my glass and oil on my lips with a stupid smile across my face. In fact, it’s still there. I cannot help that it is the small things in life that make my heart sing. Christos (of course) the doorman, came over to my table to talk to me, and brought me two roses and told me never to forget this place. Little did he know… I invited him and the owner, Yiannis, to sit with me and we had fantastic conversations about everything and nothing. My favorite part was that he would introduce me to all the Greek men as “Brandy, like Metaxa, she is from America BUT she speaks Greek!” as a warning to them to not say anything I could understand.
After spending several hours at the restaurant, the lunch crowd left and it was just the staff of the place between rush hours.
Taverna Akropol has been there for 70 years, and the same staff has worked there for the last ten years, they are more family to each other than their own families, and it was truly heartwarming to watch their interactions. With the doors closed and no customers they let loose, dancing among themselves, cursing at the TV, calling each other malakas, and finally getting to have a meal of their own. I felt so privileged to be able to hang out “behind the scenes” with them, and could have stayed all night if I wasn’t staying in the ghetto.
“you are staying in OMONIA?! with the gypsies?! no, no, you should not do that, it is very international there”. International is the Greek way of saying something is shady. So the men walked me to the bus station and paid the driver to take me to Omonia “make fast! before dark” they yelled to the driver while telling me how to “keep my head on a stick” which I took to mean, look around me…
Needless to say, I made it home safe, sound, and touched (not even literally today) by the genuine hospitality, concern and love of the Greek people. How am I supposed to make it around the world when I have found the place that fills my soul? Greece and I have got a thing going on.
'Put Your Head On a Stick And Other Greek Advice' have 16 comments
March 7, 2010 @ 11:59 am Paula Swenson
σιγα-σιγα
March 8, 2010 @ 2:06 am livevicuriously
…one of my favorite Greek phrases ever! …right behind Malakas 😉
March 7, 2010 @ 12:21 pm Steve
Reminds me of discovering Dino’s in Xania …
… but that’s one of MY stories!
March 8, 2010 @ 2:06 am livevicuriously
but we love your stories! all I need is a glass of raki and some quiddler… ahhh, turkiye… I miss it so… dont you?
March 7, 2010 @ 7:30 pm Mom
What an amazing day. How will tomorrow equal it’s simple splendor? I love you bunches and Pop says on this “one” thing he agrees with the Greek men, “keep your head on a stick”.
March 8, 2010 @ 2:04 am livevicuriously
hahaha Pop WOULD say that. something tells me he wouldnt agree with too many of the other things the Greek men say 😉
March 7, 2010 @ 9:10 pm Mom as in the one who gave birth to you..
I wish I were there, but I prefer to keep my head on my shoulders most days. I’m glad you are drinking it all in. Be safe, we love you. Opa says way to go girl!
March 8, 2010 @ 1:58 am livevicuriously
well with your head on your shoulders, it will never be in the clouds… tell him thank you. thanks for clarifying “which” mom you were, I was soooo confused.
March 7, 2010 @ 9:43 pm spunkygirlmonologues
Great post, you made me smile as I read it. What a great experience. I love traveling solo and interacting with locals, it’s fantastic.
March 8, 2010 @ 1:57 am livevicuriously
I’m so glad to be writing to an audience that understands what amazing experiences come from interacting with the locals. Just *one* more reason I adore Couchsurfing.com!
March 8, 2010 @ 12:32 am Kid Colt
What a great time! I must tell you, at the beginning, all I could think was “Rain??? Beware of wet, polished stone!” 🙂
March 8, 2010 @ 1:56 am livevicuriously
oh I learned that VERY quickly yesterday. Marble + Rain = sliding instead of walking. I just pretended I was on a moving walkway whenever I started sliding for a few feet…. I didnt even fall once!
March 14, 2010 @ 11:48 am joanne
Couchsurfing! I’ve totally heard of that! Seriously? Can’t wait to hear lots of your stories!! <3
March 16, 2010 @ 9:01 pm Facebook Fan Page Contest WINNERS! « Spunky Girl Monologues
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March 19, 2010 @ 7:23 am Robbie
Missed saying goodbye – what an awesome life adventure. Enjoy!! Can’t wait to read more posts!
March 20, 2010 @ 11:23 am Monica
These are the moments why traveling makes me feel alive