As we began driving the principal ring road Steven pointed towards the bubbling cumulus clouds: “see that there? That’s where we’re going, those rocks in the sky.” I was already nervous about the hike. Could I withstand it? My knee was trembling — still not fully recovered from the motorcycle accident in Thailand— but I had made up my mind. I would reach the summit, show myself I could do it, that I can still do whatever I want: despite obstacles which creep their way into my world.
We parked the car just 100 meters below and hiked the cliff to the first dragon house. At first glance it appears to be a goat mansion, evoking memories of the rustic, stone fishing shacks studded on Karalides Beach. “So, are the dragons asleep… or, have they left?” I joked.
Though I couldn’t find an absolute answer as to why these are called dragon houses, the current understanding seems to be that thousands of years ago the people who lived here called them “dragon houses” because only men like dragons could have constructed these symmetrical, convexed roof houses. Some believe they were temples to the goddess of woman and marriage Hera. Some theorize workers in the surrounding quarries built these as shelter. In fact, to this day one of the still intact dragon houses is still inhabited by a woman. The stark stone home is whitewashed with lime; a kerosene burner the size of a pineapple, and a single pot completes her kitchen.
We depart straight up the side of the mountain at the beginning of our four-hour hike, the clouds shift, gracefully providing sun cover and a break from the blazing heat. An hour later we enter into a shady grove, and Maddy and Steven took to photographing a small mushroom which reminded me of the straw mushrooms you’d find in a Thai coconut soup. Greece is home to hundreds of varieties of wild mushrooms, and there are even foraging tours on the island where a certified guide will show you which to eat. However, I’ll stick to buying mine from the market.
My favorite part of the hike was the Styra Acropolis where remnants of the old city capital perch on the ridge of the mountain like a Greek Stonehenge. From here the 360-degree views of the narrowest part of Evia are complete, you see from the Gulf of the Evia straights, past Mount Ochi, and along a long line of wind turbines to the Aegean sea. A cascade of goat droppings matched to their owners, whose bells and bleats rang out far in the distance. Looking down upon Styra, a traditional whitewashed village nestled into rolling green hills and tucked on a winding main road, this quaint scene is enough to compel anyone to make this journey. I tell Maddy we will come back here for a sunset dinner in the Spring when the weather is more forgiving, and the nights stay at bay a bit longer. Hiking down the other side of the ridge there’s plenty of loose rocks and brush to look out for, and I am grateful for the Nordic walking sticks Steven provided.
He’s got a surprise up his sleeve — we’re taken back to the town of Styra, population under 3,000, and the quaint tavern “TO STEKI TON DEIPNOSOFISTON” whose outdoor terrace overlooks the valley of Styra. The sun had already slipped into the sea in front and the dusky hue is paintbrush water spilled on the canvas of the sky. Five thin logs of this month’s olive branch clearing rest in the fireplace, slowly roasting themselves. The table is set for six with two wine glasses per person. The fire is crackling, and Mixalis is beating the drums to welcome to us. The sizeable olive press across the street lays in homage to the olives which are currently being harvested around the island, and as we arrive a sweet honey infused wine is poured into thimble-like glasses by Mixalis.
Within moments, Vaggelis the owner appeared at the top of the stairs as the clanging racket of the dumbwaiter alerted us. A firecracker of energy leaked into the room as he laughed merrily, a genial farmhand figure.
The horiatiki, Greek salad, was beautiful. Winter tomatoes from the back garden, red onions from the same patch, capers from the bush behind the restaurant, salt dried from the Aegean sea(!), with a thick coat of fresh and bright olive oil from the grove behind us. Fat green olives like fleshy gold mines dotted the bowl. The oregano dusted on top was from the hillside to the north of the house and the wine from Styra’s grapes. A house salad if I’d ever eaten one.
Maddy and I had eaten most of the salad, leaving a small lake of oregano flecked oil at the bottom of the bowl. Mixali told me to tear a piece of bread and dip it into the dressing of the bowl. Isn’t that what I have been striving for, soaking up every ounce, scraping the sides of the bowl of life?
]]>Iceland is not a country to veer off the beaten path, the well-trodden routes are there for your safety as well as the preservation of a unique ecosystem who needs her space. This is especially true due to the sharp increase of tourism in Iceland over the last ten years. Whether the country will be able to sustain a responsible model for tourism is yet to be seen, however, all tourists should do their own research and come well prepared to visit with care. For this reason, it’s crucial to visit with a tour company who understands the impact of tourists, the dangers of mass tourism, and how to walk the delicate line of a respectful yet inquisitive guest.
The ring road which follows a giant circle around the edges of the island is over 1400 kilometers long. Driving time is less than two days behind the wheel, but as is the case with traveling in many places, less is more. Give yourself time to immerse in the landscape and soak it all in: where else are you going to have nature at its most aggressive, gentle, and playful in one place?
My recommendation is to rent a complete camper van or kitted out Mercedes Sprinter so you’re not bound by destination points on a day’s journey. Even in the midst of so much technology in travel planning, there are plenty of ways to ensure the wildness and adventure of travel stays alive. One of those is certainly by giving yourself the leeway to explore and linger as you please, with no pressing check-in time on your mind.
In my opinion, ten days is the bare minimum you’d need to do this journey justice. If you’re pressed for time on your Icelandic vacation I’d recommend staying on the south coast with a major highlight trip being the stunning Blue Lagoon.
If you’re trying to avoid having a whale or puffin wind up on your plate (and you should be!) advance planning is your friend. This vegan guide to eating Iceland by Ragnar Freyr is very detailed and complete. As you see, there are only two vegan restaurants on the entire island: Kaffi Vinyl and Veganæs, so visiting those is a given. However, Happy Cow lists at least 20 vegan-friendly restaurants, so while you won’t be spoiled for choice, there will be at least some options for you.
But if you don’t fancy planning your entire trip around where you can get some vegetables, self-catering is another great option. The grocery chain Bonus, with yellow banners and a pink piggy bank, appear all over the island (though less so in some parts) so you can easily plan your own meals from the aisles of the market, too. Keep an eye out for items like nuts, seeds, dried fruits and preserves which don’t need refrigeration, travel well, and are less likely to spill all over the car. Taken from experience, of course. It’s always enthralling to visit supermarkets while traveling, looking at the different items locals have in their cart, and hoping Google translate will offer a solid description so you know what you’re buying! Just in case of emergencies, I’d definitely recommend coming to Iceland with a supply of emergency protein bars, for those times when towns are few and far between.
Even die-hard DIY travelers can benefit from knowledgeable tour guides. Whether you’re interested in photography tours to Iceland, or Vegan cruises around the fjords there is no shortage of tour companies which have sprouted up in recent years to cater to the boom of travelers visiting the land of fire and ice. For example, even self-drive tours can be booked online! Though, when you book pre-packaged you are oftentimes paying someone to do the legwork for you, so if part of your adventure and entertainment is in the planning (like me) you may want to spreadsheet the whole thing yourself!
One of my favorite parts of planning a trip to anywhere is getting into the literature and culture of the country. Imagine the surprise and delight of locals when they find out you’re up to date and well informed on their media: it makes a big difference in not only how you experience the country, but how you’re received by its people. Even if digging into old Norse poems is not your cup of tea, there’s plenty of Icelandic films which can be watched on the flight over, and leave you with just enough talking points and insight to enrich your visit.
]]>The efficient and friendly doorman helps us with our bags to the room, Front Desk staff offer us a vegan cookie and glass of water upon welcome. So refreshing that they are using flatware and crystal glasses, no plastic in sight. Our room is on the second floor, and the waiting area next to the elevator shows a commercial for the YES! Hotels chain followed by information about the hotel’s location. Only a six-minute walk to the Acropolis museum. 10 minutes on foot to the parliament building for the famous changing of the guards. The botanical gardens are only 2 streets away, and we make mental calculations for our afternoon plans.
Though it’s only a four-hour flight from Madrid, we got up at 5 am today and are ready for a little siesta. Our room overlooks a quaint typical Athenian church whose tolling bells mercifully don’t make it through the thick modern windows. One can’t help but focus on the upcycled ladder serving as a chair which wouldn’t be out of place at the tea table of the Mad Hatter. The blackout blinds work perfectly and the bed is one of the most luxurious, welcoming, and well-sheeted we’ve ever slept on in our lives — and that’s saying something.
At first, I was taken aback by the design, but we quickly accustom ourselves to the jagged edges of the curvaceous mirror. By the end of the trip, it had actually grown on us, though I’d not want to bring a child here; that corner could be a problem for little ones. The hammered sink was also a nice touch and reminded us of tin shops in the narrow alleys and dusty souks of Morocco. As the room was cozy, the option for turning on music in the bathroom was not lost on us, we are both thankful for these details which make full-time travel as a couple more graceful.
After a very satisfying siesta, we walked the Monastiraki neighborhood, inhaled the views of the Acropolis from the flea market below (I’m here to report we even bought chintzy gold leaf crowns which we later wore in the hotel room) and dined on falafel from Falafel House for dinner. It’s our fave guilty pleasure no-fuss food in Athens — second only to Jordanian falafel — and is excellent to eat while lounging outside people watching.
Breakfast at the hotel was a bit challenging; while there was a plentiful spread for Omni guests, including a chef-manned custom omelet station, vegans are limited to simple carbs: granola or bread. After asking the waiter what could be done, she brought us a tapa plate of roasted vegetables. We couldn’t help but feel this was an afterthought and that more satisfying and plentiful options could have been planned. However, I did see a review to this effect on TripAdvisor, so was not completely surprised. It turned out to be a blessing in surprise though, as we sought out an early lunch downtown where I finally (!!) tried Moussaka at Vegan Nation. I think the dish would have best been served straight from the oven, but it was filling and perhaps only lacking salt and pepper. That said, the dark chocolate studded brownie made up for it, and we took half of it for the ferry ride to Evia island, where we’ll stay til March!
If you’re in Athens you can drop by during Rooftop Bar Hours from 18:00 to midnight, daily. Find them at 16 Filellinon St, Syntagma, Athens, Attiki, 105 57, Greece or make hotel reservations in advance directly via the NEW Hotel website.
]]>This former fishing village has seen rapid growth in the last decades thanks to an international airport and docking cruiseliners. Aside from sunbathing vacationers, many adventure seekers find a home in Cabo thanks to the plentiful watersports and adrenaline activities on offer.
A Villa to Remember
If you’re planning the ultimate vacation in Los Cabos with friends, for a special occasion, or simply like to live large while traveling, it’s absolutely worth looking at Luxury Retreats who have a collection of breathtaking rentals available. My personal favorite is the Buena Vida Villa perched above the Finisterra Beach. The villa has ten bedrooms, seven of which enjoy ocean views, and sleeps up to 21 people. The heated infinity pool overlooks the Pacific Ocean, just imagine the incredible sunsets! Outdoors is the place to be: there’s a jacuzzi, BBQ pit and even a steam room to keep your skin glowing for photos. In case a dream villa isn’t enough to keep you busy consider taking a whale watching tour!
Whale, Why Not?
Cabo Expeditions is the sole tour operator authorized by the government of Mexico to work with the Mexican Navy and rescue whales. In fact, you likely saw them on the BBC in 2011. An adult humpback whale had gotten tangled in commercial fishing lines and was in immediate danger of dying. Even though he’s 40 feet long and weighs 35 tonnes, the fishing nets had wrapped him from mid-torso to his fins, leaving him mostly immobile.
Sadly, this is not the first instance a whale has been caught in commercial fishing nets. Cabo Expeditions has rescued over 10 whales in their career and look forward to helping more.
Of course, if you’re concerned about the effect overfishing is having on the eco-system why not choose vegan foods which require no animals to process or prepare?
Eat Well and Make New Friends
For authentic Mexican food cooked with flair, be sure to stop at Rana Vegana. It’s a hidden gem, but only a ten dollar taxi ride from the center to find, and so well worth it, the address is Playa Migriño, Sin Numero (no number) 23470 Los Cabos, Baja California Sur and their phone number is +52 624 239 9448. Apart from traditional Mexican food, tacos, enchiladas, and quesadillas, there is a wide variety of international flavors such as white sauce pizza with almond cheese, or a BBQ pizza. For those wanting something lighter and fresh, you can enjoy the salads or baked potato options.
Enjoy the outdoor patio which is ample enough to host large groups, but do note that there is no indoor seating available, so it’s best for good weather only. Previous diners have loved not only the tasty food but the warm and welcoming atmosphere provided by the owners. Good prices, animal-friendly food, and excellent service make Rana Vegana an easy choice for your Los Cabos stay.
Mako Vegan Restaurant is a perfect place for those traveling with pets who prefer diner fare such as burgers, pizza, and the like. Additionally, you can find fresh mint mojitos, sashimi, and homemade chorizo and mole! We think this place sounds like the perfect fusion food stop. You can visit at Calle Paseo a la Marina S/N, behind Puerto Paraiso El Medano, Cabo San Lucas or call for reservations 624-157-3716.
Sleep in a Green Spot
Accommodation is often the biggest indicator of how a vacation will turn out. If you’re a couple traveling for a getaway, the Dreams Resort is a great choice due to their social responsibility, Rainforest Certified Alliance, and admirable a beach cleanup program. However, beware of the Dreaming of Freedom Turtle Program which allows you to hold a baby turtle before setting it free into the sea. Only experts should handle such fragile and delicate creatures!
Giving back to the local community is tantamount whenever traveling and this can be difficult to do in a town flooded with mega resorts. Look for locally owned arts and crafts to purchase or find websites which allow you to rent directly from those living in the area. This is also a great way to find out insider’s opinions on what to do in the area that typical tourists wouldn’t know!
Capture Culture — And Bring it Home
The Thursday Art Walk in San Jose is a hit with art aficionados and window shoppers alike. A favorite of all who visit is the Mi Casa Azul Gallery at Camino a Flora Farms, Las Ánimas near the San Jose Catholic Church. The studio is a veritable treasure chest with prints of all shapes and sizes, and naturally — prices. The kind owners and vibrant artists are the heart of this small gallery and shoppers nearly always find something that speaks to them. From the Ocean Series of Tamara Santini in acrylics and oils to the affordable watercolors there is art for everyone, here.
Beautiful glass vases are a wonderful take-home piece which will hold memories of your time in Cabo as well as floral pieces. Of if you prefer something more easy to carry home, there are rings, necklaces and other forms of wearable art. We’re serious when we say you will find something to love!
Even if you’re on a budget trip make sure you keep your Cabo memories alive — send home a postcard to yourself or pick up a magnet to keep on the fridge.
]]>I’d fallen into the rhythm of waking just after the sun, writing two thousand words while drinking coffee, feeling the heat blossom into a full powered oven. Then, Maddy would wake and we feast on fresh fruit: sometimes on the tender slippery flesh of a young coconut or the trickling juices of passionfruit. Sitting at the outdoor table we saw Mount Agung on our left, and to the right was only trees, rice, and the occasional runaway rooster.
It often surprises me how fast I feel at home in many places around the world, and this house was one of them. With the protection of a mosquito net and the grace of the fan, we lived happily (if not a bit sweaty) for months, until the fateful day. Though we got most of our produce from our local friends there were some products we got from the Tesco just an eight-minute drive up the road. So we took the backpack (to avoid plastic bags) and headed off, as we normally did. I was wearing tights and a short sleeve dress, Maddy in his shorts and t-shirt.
After shopping at Tesco we headed for home as always. When the stoplight turned green the SUV behind us hit our moto, knocking us forward where we slid into the intersection. Maddy hit the asphalt, the moto landed on his knee, and I landed on the moto in a dog pile. A stranger came, turned off the moto, and helped us to the side of the road as the hit and run driver disappeared off a side street. Maddy was already bleeding and I could tell this was a bad wound. But we had no choice.
“Maddy, get on the moto, you have to drive us to the hospital. Now! Before your shock wears off and you realize how hurt you are, VAMOS!”
To his credit, he picked up the bike and we drove the ten minutes to the clinic. I still remember the faces of people in cars and on other motorcycles looking at us, both bleeding and covered in dirt, eyes focused ahead, still terrified we were going to crash again yet braving the road.
As the weeks went by, Maddy’s deep wounds were not healing, and progressively kept getting worse. We were spending hundreds of euro each week treating him, and it wasn’t improving at all. After consulting with a family friend who is a physician they advised him to come home to Europe and get himself checked out where he could recover with less humidity and stress (we lived on a top floor, so every day meant going up and down stairs which was very painful for him). The local clinic’s doctor advised us to seek treatment in Kuala Lumpur or Singapore as they had limited recourse and were prescribing him .5mg of Xanax for the pain. Obviously, it didn’t help, so he was in constant pain. Though life had been so lovely, it was obvious what we needed to do.
Our flights home to Europe weren’t for months and the airlines didn’t see fit to help us out. So, in a panic, I rearranged everything for us to leave Indonesia and be closer to a hospital in Malaysia as that’s what a local doctor advised. Finding a cheap easy air Asia ticket online can be a bit of roulette, but I was able to piece together a journey from Bali to Penang to Kuala Lumpur to Madrid via a long layover in Saudi Arabia. Poor Maddy was weak, exhausted, and in constant pain; not to mention concerned about the random stabbing stomach pangs he kept experiencing (we later found out these were from medications).
There was another problem: I hadn’t yet been out of the European Union for 90 days (as per the Schengen agreement) so he had to make the long journey home alone! An easy flight search found me a ticket back to California where I could organize some paperwork and then meet Maddy later in Madrid for the holidays. So, while everything isn’t always roses and pineapple whilst traveling we’ve still managed to make the best out of even the worse incidents. It’s been nearly a year since these events and his leg is almost recovered, though we don’t have any onward tickets to South East Asia right now. In fact, we’re leaving to housesit on a Greek island next month and you can be sure we won’t be using a moto to get around!
]]>For me, this will be a creative writing retreat where I focus solely on producing work that I love: be it short stories, poems, fiction, or hybrid works. It will come on the heels of my personal writing website launch, so I will have ample incentive and time to publish weekly. Maddy has been expanding his video skillset and has a few short films which he will be filming on site — as I have decided acting is not for me (though I did give it a shot) he will also have to be his own star. Definitely, keep an eye out for the behind-the-scenes on those videos as they will be hilarious one-man shows of talent.
We’re so excited to see the furbabies again: we miss Publik the dog, Kisette and Carmen the cats, and all three chickens, who we hope have survived to see another winter. I’m especially looking forward to cuddling and walking Kisette while Maddy’s arms are longing for Carmen! We’re planning to build the chickens a better protection for the cold winter months, but are woefully unprepared in coop creating, so if you’ve got any tips please do let us know. We still have to prepare snow chains for the car, just in case of an emergency during snowy times and are contemplating renting a car in Athens to bring all our gear over. Though, it seems much easier to rent a car in USA than in Athens online!
Winter is tricky in this particular space: the single car road can be easily washed out in high rains or we face the possibility of being snowed in, so for the first time in my life I will have to stock up for winter. I’m actually quite looking forward to it, though, planning, preparing, and a bit of rationed hoarding. There are lots of soups in our future, and I’ll happily take any protein heavy winter recipes you’ve got. We’ve also got to stock up on firewood, drinking water, and coffee and cookies for our respective addictions. Seriously, what good is winter without a nice hot cup of coffee to heat you and keep you warm through the day?
And then, there’s the biggest bonus of being in this remote area: the WiFi comes and goes depending — quite literally — on the wind. So we bring books. We’ve bought forty books to keep ourselves well-read and entertained on those long grey days when outside is a harsh world and we snuggle up with the cats and watch the sea froth itself into a salty latte. On sunny days, we’ll walk farther than before, exploring new parts of the island and landscape, seeing what flora and fauna we can add to our knowledge. Maddy’s already bought amazing boots and thick pants, though soon it’s my turn to shop, but I have a hard time buying winter clothes as they all feel too suffocating and hot when trying them on in the store.
So yes, winter is coming, and we couldn’t be more excited to leave behind the hyper-connectivity and rush of Madrid and swap it for the stillness and peace of Nea Styra. What are your plans for this winter? Do you also have creative ventures up your sleeve?
]]>Walking down the street we saw loads of shops sporting vegan V stickers, Happy Cow clings, and menus advertising vegan sections. This is a huge deal for vegans who dine out with friends in non-vegan restaurants since it leaves many more options for the group and cruelty-free eaters.
Eating Proper Pizza
We’d heard rumors of the pizza at Sfizy Veg on Dale and Franca’s awesome vegan blog and had to taste it for ourselves. Well, there’s a reason we have no photos of our meal. When the pizzas came from the oven, with hot, flaky crust with a few air bubbles, we had to honor the kitchen and eat straight away. Since then, Maddy’s learned from a Salerno friend how to make a triple-rise pizza dough and swears only to eat from his own hands now. Lucky me.
Serve Yourself at This Spot!
Next up was a spot on the other side of town called Crunch Kantine. It had just opened and I’d read reviews raving about its incredible value, inventive food, and quaint vibe. So, we braved the rain and tracked down the canteen. It’s like walking into a friend’s spacious salon.
Local artwork hangs on the walls, the smell of herbs and spices is in the air, and the warmth of the day’s soup cuts the chill from the street. “Hello! Welcome to Crunch Kantine.” The owner and chef is also the greeter! He explained that it was a buffet system, we could take as much as we’d like, and that nearly all the dishes were vegan except one and a few desserts. We were in heaven, as the dishes were packed with protein, rich in greens, and varied in spice so that Maddy had plenty to choose from, too. This spot offered exceptional value, creativity, and flavor.
Save Room for Dessert
With pizza, doner kebab from Vöner, and home-cooked meals on the menu, it was time to seek out a burger. So we went to the creperie Let It Be. Wait, a crepe place for burgers? Oh yeah. Then we sat down, and I saw the menu. Macaroni and cheese? The burger was going to have to wait, as I hadn’t had the taste of cheese since going vegan. Maddy had laser vision and went for apple cinnamon crepes. Such a good choice!
If you can believe it, we went to a few other places in Berlin that week, too. The last spot was a place Maddy and I couldn’t agree about: Brunch at Kopps. I loved everything from the robin’s egg blue decor and clean white trim to the roasted veg and vegan hollandaise sauce, but Maddy still wasn’t convinced about the concept of brunch. For me, it was a must for vegan brunch lovers in Berlin.
Vegans, take note. It’s incredibly easy to have a great day in Berlin, as this city features flavors from all over the world. Even when you’re not visiting a vegan restaurant, you’re most likely going to find options that fulfill your lifestyle and budget. Aside from all the international fare, there’s plenty of lovely bratwurst, pretzels, and vegan beer to be had, too! Have you tried any spots in Berlin that we’ve missed?
]]>We arrived after a long journey including off-roading, ferry, bus, and taxi from the breezy island of Evia where we’d just left our six-week housesit. It was high time for rest and relaxation!
Check-in was fast and easy, and we were given a room on the fifth floor, with a slight glimpse towards the House of Parliament.
As soon as we opened the door a whiff of fresh linen welcomed us. Though our room was on the small side, there was enough space for a mini bar, working desk, and closet. The oversized marble bathroom featured a waterfall showerhead, double sinks, and high-end toiletries from vegan-friendly Gilchrist & Soames. We love their Zero Collection as it includes zero sulfates, zero parabens, zero phthalates, zero artificial colors and zero animal testing! We hope more hotels choose to support this cruelty-free and decadent beauty line, too.
Shortly there was a knock on the door with a welcome plate of fresh fruit along with the hotel’s press kit, delivered via pen drive. It’s always appreciated when brands choose to go eco-friendly when it comes to promotion, and it’s no surprise the Hotel Grande Bretagne is leading the way.
Since we were only in town for the day, I planned to take full advantage of the spa facilities which I’d read so much about, while Maddy started exploring the gift shop, the GB Corner. The pastries on display were gorgeous, though sadly (or perhaps, luckily?) we didn’t try any as there were no vegan selections on offer! Maybe next time…
On the spa floor, there’s a large indoor swimming pool which shimmers in the gentle light. After showering off, I slip into the water and step into the mindset of relaxation. From here I enter the herbal steam room where the hot water jets out over dried herbs and infuses the room with a woody, earthy smell that rejuvenates all my senses. Fifteen minutes later and I am dripping sweat; luckily there’s a water station where I rehydrate before trying the Amethyst Grotto. Lastly, the Sauna. I turn the timer to keep track of my ten minutes, splash a scoop of water on the scorching hot rocks and let myself melt into the wooden boards.
Fifteen minutes later and I am dripping sweat; luckily there’s a water station where I rehydrate before trying the Amethyst Grotto. Lastly, the Sauna. I turn the timer to keep track of my ten minutes, splash a scoop of water on the scorching hot rocks and let myself melt into the wooden boards.
Stepping out of the sauna, I’m a little lightheaded, so I drink some more water while enjoying the hydrotherapy treatment for feet. Rested and ready for my spa treatment, I wrap the bathrobe around me and wait to be called for my turn. Maddy is getting the full body massage while I opted for the GB Prickly Pear Luxury Facial. My therapist calls my name and leads me into room five. The room is lit in a gentle amber light, smells of fresh blossoms and the massage table is plush and comfy. I’m instantly relaxed before the facial even begins.
My therapist shows me all the products and explains that she will be using an ancient Japanese style of massage, Kobido. It involves an alternation of quick and slow hand movements to improve circulation in the face and neck, boost collagen production, and destroy dead cells to pave the way for new ones. Yes, please!
She cleanses my skin with featherlight finger strokes, massaging in circles, and working the pads of her fingers against the pores of my nose. Next, a chilled mask which she paints on with a gentle brush. It’s made from apricot seeds and smells faintly of fresh pound cake. The hot towel she uses to remove the mask rejuvenates me and pulls me from the brink of sleep. Ahhhh.
The neck and shoulder massage are incredible, and I am at the mercy of her skilled and strong hands. As her fingers glide along the occipital ridge of my skull, I slip into a deep ecstasy, wondering if I should move to Athens just to repeat this experience. Deep breaths come easily now, and before I know it the treatment has come to an end. Still in my bathrobe, I join Maddy in the interior terrace for a mint tea where he’s just as pleasantly wilted as I am.
After a very comfortable and restful night, we awake to the sun reflecting off the nearby building. Luckily there’s not much to re-pack before our flight to Madrid, so we take the stairs to the eighth floor. I’m so ready for a coffee! Breakfast was served with an unforgettable view.
There were plenty of vegan items to keep us satiated: whole sauteed baby button mushrooms, roasted potatoes, crusty bread with marmalade, bagels, and fresh fruit. The grapefruit juice was freshly squeezed, tart, and the perfect touch of acid to round out the sweetness of the pistachio pastry squares. Luckily for me, they had soy milk to round out the strength of the coffee — and after a leisurely breakfast, it was time to zip up our suitcase and hit the airport — back to Spain.
Since 1842 the Hotel Grande Bretagne, A Luxury Collection Hotel has been a landmark luxurious retreat in Greece’s capital, and it’s clear that tradition is still going strong. We’re so thankful for their warm and generous hospitality on our whirlwind stopover in Athens! Want to try for yourself? Visit them online, here, or in person at 1 Vasileos Georgiou A’ str., Syntagma Square, Athens.
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