Lisbon, I love you. Real bad.

I love lovely Lisbon
photo: francisco antunes

I arrived in the city at 530am via the overnight train from Madrid, as I walked up one of the many hills in the city that led me to the Palace Lisbon Hostel, I looked around and thought it was going to be like any other city.

Upon arrival at the hostel I got a tour of the rooftop, where I sat and watched the sun rising over the castle and river.

It could have been the lack of sleep, or my endless fascination with all things new, but I swear the sunrise was reflected off every inch of the river, every window pane in town, it just hung in the air, warming the city… spectacular. I somehow was able to catch up on my much needed sleep and then I headed out to see what the city had to offer me.

I scoffed at the 1euro40cent tram ticket (yeah, I’m getting THAT kinda cheap after so many months on the road), and decided to go by foot. I was enjoying a perfectly peaceful walk along the river towards a large plaza when I noticed a guy following me and shouting “I’m not drinking- I’m so f*cked!!!” He follows me for about a block yelling this at the top of his lungs, while I am laughing out loud at this hilarity. Judging by the scent that was seeping from his pores, I was pretty sure he had been drinking for about 10 years straight.

This guy REALLY wants another drink… so I pop into a mini market (which is really just a closet with trinkets and booze) and I buy the guy a beer. I hand it to him and ask him to stop following me now. To which he responds by yelling “I’m drinking!!! I’m so f*cked!!!” You can’t pay for comedy like that.

Yes, I understand the lack of logic behind not wanting to spend 1.40 on a tram ticket but being willing to shell out 1 euro for a crazed alcoholic- but this just struck me as the right thing to do in the moment.
I walk up the hill to the absurdly large cathedral, where I popped in for a peek. Gorgeous stained glass, vaulted ceilings, candles flickering~ everything a cathedral should be. That having been said- I was ready to move on to the castle. Upon the highest point of the hill lays the impressive castle of Lisbon. Admittedly, I am awed by the massive size of this castle and it’s fantastic view….but like so many other places, Lisbon is a city of the people.

I walked from my hostel in Bairro Alto to the outside suburb of Belem (about 6km) and on the way home got lost due to the fact there was no daylight and I don’t do maps. I used my best lispy Spanish (which is surprisingly well understood in Portugal) and asked a woman for the general direction of Bairro Alto. She asked me if I was lost, where I was from, why I was here, etc… all the while walking me back the way I had come.

We arrived at a pastry shop called “Pasties de Belem” and she said first I must have one of these pastries before I can even think about heading back home. There was a line out the door and around the corner, so we waited in line while she told me how famous and delicious these little treats were.

Put it in my mouth!

When we got up to the counter, she not only ordered for me, but paid for mine as well. We walked to a nearby park and enjoyed these little morsels which were- pretty freaking good.

Then she walked me to the metro station, used her pass to get me in, and told me just to ride the line to my stop. I thanked her and tried to push money on her, but she wouldn’t have any of it, instead she said “welcome to Lisbon” and disappeared back into the crowd of people pushing their way onto the underground.

I don’t know what I’ve done in this life or a past life to get such good luck coming my way, but I find I am consistently surprised an awed by the kindness, generosity and sheer goodness of people every day and Lisbon is no exception.

PS. The men are GORGEOUS.