After spending a semester in El Salvador, learning about its tragic history, vibrant culture and hope-filled people, I feel compelled to share a few gems I picked up along the way.
Cheap fun in the capital city:
La Laguna Botanical Gardens:
At just $1 a pop, it’s the perfect way to spend an afternoon! Take a stroll on bridges stretching over pools, adorned with lilies and filled with tropical fish. Relax on cozy benches tucked behind green alcoves while tropical birds and reptiles peek out of every nook and cranny! As if that’s not enough to discover, there’s a playground with a giant tire swing (which I obviously tested out on numerous occasions)!
Mercado Ex-Cuartel:
One of my favorite things to do in any city is check out the local market! It’s a labyrinth of products and people trying to make you a deal; everything from shoes, to hand-woven baskets, to religious paraphernalia. I suggest shopping around before deciding (it’s huge) and haggle if you’ve got the language skills!
Metropolitan Cathedral:
A remarkable building inside and out. One of my favorite parts is the imaginative and colorful tile façade created by famous Salvadoran artist, Fernando Llort. You can visit the tomb of Archbishop Oscar Romero in the crypt below the sanctuary.
Memorial wall in Cuscatlan Park:
This wall pays tribute to about 25,000 people who died or disappeared during the civil war in the 80s. Remember to bring paper and pencil to etch over some of the names as a small memento.
Quick trips from the capital:
Juayua:
A quaint village, just a couple hours from the capital. Catch the public bus from San Salvador to Sonsonate, then another to Juayua. You can easily organize all kinds of outdoorsy tours through your hotel/hostel. My hiking tour was lead by a 12 yr old local expert named Omar. He led us to beautiful waterfalls and underwater tunnels we ventured into! I also highly recommend catching the food and artisan festival held in the town square every Sunday. Get delicious and cheap food from local restaurateurs as well as local artists selling their handiwork! At the fair, I ran into a Rasta named Luis (and unless he’s moved onto his next adventure, you can find him sitting outside the main entry of the UCA (University of Central America), selling his jewelry) who introduced me to his brother. Hector, also an artist, gifted me a beautiful handmade picture of a waterfall using only spray paint and piece of plastic to create the distinct shapes. It pays to know the locals!
Lago de Coatapeque:
Also just a short 1-2 hour bus or taxi ride from the capital. A crater lake formed thousands of years ago, with magical turquoise water attributed to the algae. Relax in the lake and enjoy the vistas for the day or rent a room for the night at one of the many hotels or restaurants along the shore.
Conquer Volcan Izalco:
You know you’ve always wanted to hike a volcano. A word of caution: this hike is not a leisurely stroll. One of the most beautiful workouts of my life, but exhausting! If you make it to the top, sit down, rest a while and enjoy the incredible views.
Then, reward yourself by literally sliding down the side. Since the volcano is basically gravel, just dig your feet into the side, lean back and let loose. (This is not a time to focus on how many pebbles are stuck in your Keens; keep calm and slide on.)
Annual special events:
For a country with such a violent past, they sure know how to celebrate life!
UCA Martyrs Vigil in November:
In 1989, six Jesuit priests, their housekeeper and her daughter were murdered in the middle of the night by members of the Salvadoran army. The Jesuits were seen as a threat for educating the population about their rights and fighting for justice. The day begins with a football tournament and in between matches, groups meticulously construct magnificent “alfombras” or carpets, made from colored salt on the streets surrounding the UCA. As a poignant reminder of the finite nature of things, crowds process over the masterpieces, mixing all the colors and designs as they go (So make sure you’re in the front to catch them before they get stomped on!). After a mass is celebrated, the area turns into a fair with concerts and local vendors.
Romero Peace Procession:
Held every March for Archbishop Romero, an instrumental leader in the movement for justice and peace during their civil war. He was assassinated in 1979 while giving mass. On the anniversary of his assassination there is a huge procession through the city followed by an outdoor mass celebrated in front of the main Cathedral. A truly special thing to witness!
**Now that you know where to go, you need to know what to eat! Check out my next article on local Salvadoran flavors! **
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