The Center of the World – Delphi, Greece

The Mighty Oracle

I’ve long believed I was the center of the world (or universe) and last week, I was actually correct!

That is, of course, if you abide by the Greek mentality that long held Delphi to be the center of the world. This is the place where mankind was supposed to be the closest to God, to the heavens, and of course, to enlightenment.

I can’t tell you if I was any closer to a higher power, except by the sheer fact that the ruins are at a good elevation, or if I was in the literal center of the world- but neither of those things mattered.

The journey to Delphi from Olympia is rather simple. A quick bus to Pirgos, then the train direct to Thessaloniki but instead of going all the way to Thessaloniki, you are dropped on the freeway in Itea, 20 km away from Delphi. From there, it’s a 20 euro taxi or a hitch away. The journey back? Well, that will be it’s own blog entry.

As I walked toward the archaeological site, I saw what I fear most in places like these: the dreaded tour bus.

Not just one bus, I saw 10 buses crammed full of people who have a Nikon hanging around their neck, 30 minutes to experience something that took thousands of years to build, and of course, screaming children. I blessed my Merrells and ran my way to the top so I could have a few minutes of peace.

Sitting at the top of the site, at the base of the theater I sat in silence (and awe) for ten minutes. Traveling to ancient sites such as Delphi, Olympia, Sardis, or any other place that is packed with history and natural beauty is an intense form of meditation for me.

I am compelled to touch every column, every ancient seat,  and trace my fingers over the archaic lettering that I cannot understand. Every time I caress the face of a cold marble building, or stare into the eyes of a fragmented statue, I develop a true relationship with the place I am standing. I know this makes me sound crazy, but it’s true. I feel the energy from the tips of my toes to the crown of my head.

My eyes close and my head immediately is filled with the photos and clips of years past. Goats offered in worship, town meetings, the fresh market, local women gossiping around the fire of the kitchen… I see this, I hear it, mostly, I feel it.

You will notice that there is very rarely a human being in the photos I take of places – unless they are the subject of the photo. That’s because this is how I see the land- empty of tourists, empty of technology, full of the life and spirit of ancient times.

I can’t shed light on any archaeological finds that you don’t know about, or tell you stories of the oracle that you can’t find online- but I can tell you that being in Delphi, even when sharing it with hundreds of other people, is one of the most serene feelings you can obtain in this world, without Xanax.
There is a certain calmness that takes over this valley in the evening, and some say it’s the protection of the Ancient Gods. What do you think?