Madrileños are known for their love of life, being outdoors, and la marcha! Part of the liveliness of the city is certainly due to the tradition of going out for tapas, marching from bar to bar trying small bites, (sometimes) small drinks, and chatting with friends and strangers alike.
The friendly and awesome Lauren of Madrid Food Tour invited us to try the newly reinvented Ultimate Spanish Cuisine Tour which includes over 9 different foodie stops around the heart of Madrid. As a vegetarian dining out in Madrid can be a bit of a minefield. It’s very typical for a “vegetarian sandwich” to come with loads of tuna and served with a shrug. There was none of that on this tour, though. Lauren had planned ahead and every destination had an alternative dish for me.
cookie & chocolate at El Riojano
Our first stop was El Riojano. They serve drinking chocolate which is fresh, light, delicious and has ensured I will never return to San Gines again unless it’s at 5am, preceded by some serious partying. Everything at El Riojano is fresh, made with love and a work of art. Five stars for the chocolate and history!
more cookies on the Madrid Food Tour
Next stop was a little bit freaky. Visiting the cloistered nuns on Calle Codo was a visit I won’t soon be forgetting. These nuns will live the rest of their lives serving God and baking cookies for those who are in the know. Directions to the spot are top secret, but message me for more info.
Mercado San Miguel
No visit to Madrid is complete without a lap around Mercado San Miguel, located next to the beautiful Plaza Mayor, this bright, airy market offers a little something for everyone. We stopped off to have some marinated skewers (featuring guindilla peppers, olives, anchovies, roasted red peppers and quail egg), local Madrid olives, and lemon -thyme infused Marcona almonds. We had the Vermut Reus, which comes from the north of Spain and offers the perfect balance to these savory flavors. Outstanding combinations.
El Anciano Rey de los Vinos
This is one of my favorite spots to grab a glass of wine and enjoy the view of the Royal Palace. Today everyone on the tour was treated to a bull tail skewer while I enjoyed the roasted, layered vegetables option.
La Bola Cocido Madrileño
Touted as the first place in Madrid to offer take-out food; the King used to crave the Cocido Madrileño from La Bola and would have it fetched by his carriage and brought back to the palace. I’m told it tastes like Mama’s best ever chicken soup with layers of smoky chorizo and paprika.
Albondigas from La Despensa de Carmen
My favorite stop (as evidenced by the lack of photo of my dish) was La Despensa de Carmen. The vegetarian dish was pisto: a traditional stew of zucchini, carrots, peppers, and mellow spices. This is food that is made with love and served in to-go dishes so you can enjoy the comforts of home cooking from your own home. The gentlemen enjoyed the handmade meatballs and we all loved Carmen’s welcoming mannerisms and charming little storefront.
Ferpal Market, Calle Arenal
ham & cheese
Next was a place I have walked by at least 1000 times in my life and had not yet ventured into. Mercado Ferpal, located off Sol, offers several stands with traditional food served at friendly prices. A perfect place to duck in and try a selection of hams; in my case I got to sample three Spanish cheeses : Tetilla, Cabrales, and IForgetTheNameButItWasMyFavorite.
Feeling full yet? Too bad, there’s more to come!
A really fun stop across from the Mercado San Miguel is Bar Cerveriz. This was rumored to be the best Tortilla de Patatas (Potato Omelette) in Madrid and I can verify that it is the best I have eaten in a restaurant.* This was served alongside a selection of cured Manchego cheese which was absolutely stunning. The most fun was the cider : we took a brief lesson on how to properly pour Asturian Cider (hint: it’s incredibly messy) and got to try our own hand. The shameful video is forthcoming!
Delicious Dessert!
The last stop was the sweetest – literally. Torrons Vicens is on Calle Mayor and serves up a selection of the typical (Christmastime) Spanish dessert : turrón. Turrón is a nougat style dessert which comes in a wide variety of flavors. We sampled the more traditional hard style, the burnt egg yolk (think creme brulee), and the soft, melty, almond variety.
All three were great, but my favorite was definitely the soft and creamy last one. They also gifted us a chupito “shot” of Turrón liqueur; it tastes like a lighter version of Bailey’s Irish Cream and leaves you wanting a coffee to pair along with it.
We finished the tour grateful for all the wonderful historical facts that our awesome guides Debbie and Joy shared with us and with full bellies, ready for our next Madrid adventure! The Madrid Food Tour is an awesome way to kickstart your visit to Madrid, learning the layout and history of the city via the people’s favorite past-time : eating out. Book here!
P.S. Lauren told me that they send out emails once per month with specials and discounts – be sure to sign up for “The Bite” before your trip to make the most of your visit.
Disclaimer : We were guests of Madrid Food Tour – but, as always – my opinions are my own and cannot be bought! For more information, read this ultra boring disclaimer.
* Pablo Ramirez Celaya still holds the tortilla record in my book. For private reservations, email me!
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