Morocco. Marvelous, Magical, Morocco.

Marrakesh, Morocco
photo: beatnomad

From the very greeting “Asaalam Aliekum” which literally means “peace be upon you” to the genuinely warm hospitality and love that everyone in the country seems to possess in abundance, this is a country driven by love and respect. Morocco does for my heart what Greece does for my soul, and for me, that’s saying something.

In the city there was a man with no arms or legs. He obviously had no means of making money, so every day his neighbor would carry his stump of a body  (there really is no other way to put it) to the main street where he would wait for passersby to give him a coin or two. I hid in an alleyway across from him and watched for 20 minutes. Nearly every Moroccan who passed tossed in money, some stopped to fan him because of the heat, some tilted his head back and poured their water into his parched mouth, some simply put their hand over their heart and smiled warmly at him. The communal sense of responsibility for every soul is a recurring theme in Morocco, and deeply embedded in most people you meet.

Food and hospitality in Morocco is a serious business. Spending only 3 days in Fes I was invited to dinner over 20 times and always told to come early so that I could learn to cook traditional Moroccan dishes. Moroccans love to eat, and the food is always very flavorful and plentiful. I have never seen food go such a long way as in this country. You might prepare dinner for 4 people, and wind up having 8 people to dinner yet there is always enough food.
As one Moroccan friend told me “Everyone in this country is my brother, and we must always share. Food that is for one person will be for two or three, because this is love.” Words and actions like this cause my heart to want to explode out of sheer happiness. These monetarily poor people have more love and kindness in their country than I could ever dream of.

marrakesh square
photo: princess toadie

Walking down the street with a friend of mine in Marrakech, he stopped to buy a cigarette at a cigarette stand. (Side Note: Cigarette stands are cardboard boxes manned by people who sell individual cigarettes for 1 dirham, the equivalent of 10 cents. Most people are too poor to buy a pack a time) Immediately after lighting the cigarette, someone tapped him on the back and said a few words. My friend handed over the cigarette and we walked on. I asked what that was about, and my friend said “oh, he wanted my cigarette”. “Was that a friend of yours?” “No, I’ve never seen that man in my life!” The normalcy of that interaction kept me thinking for hours. I couldn’t imagine that happening anywhere else in the world. “Hey Stranger, can I please have your only cigarette?” is likely to be met with a few choice words if not simply a “no”.
Of course, this is not to blindly glorify the country. Like every other place on this fantastic planet, Morocco has its share of problems. For tourists, the main problem is the hustle of the country. It seems like everyone is a guide, and you’re in luck- their uncle also has a carpet shop and can make you “very special price, friend price!”. Walking by souks you are sure to be barraged by “hello, where you from? please, come look only, no buying, just looking…. please, my friend, come drink tea and look. no buy”. Through some Moroccan magic you inevitably leave with a lighter wallet and a purchase you didn’t exactly plan for.
If you happen to be a solo female traveler (good for you) then it’s going to be even double the harassment. “You are so beautiful, I want to marry you. How many camels? Really, now I call my father. How many camels?” “Please! Please girl, I want to make you very special massage, Berber massage, with the Argan oil. Please, I make massage on you for free- like friend. you don’t worry” and it goes on and on. Of course, that’s also part of the charm of the country. People are not shy, they say and do as they please for the most part (within the limits of religion and laws) and make no apologies for being forward.
If you’re thinking about a trip to Morocco, do your research. Make sure that if you’re visiting during Ramadan you’re informed and prepared. While I cherish this country, I know it’s not for everyone- most people get sick, can’t stand the heat, hate the harassment and don’t like being taken for a monetary ride. While those are all very real concerns, there is something so magical and captivating about this country that I wish I could mail a small part of it to everyone I know and watch their souls bloom.